We will soon have a video, brought to you by Mr. Bamboo (owner of Bamboo Headquarters) Ralph Evans. Until then, use the following guide for a quick education on bamboo. Click on the links below for more information on any topic.
Common Bamboo Myths Corrected: Bamboo is an invasive weed!
Bamboo is anything but an invasive weed. Bamboo is actually a grass that comes in two forms: running and clumping.
Running bamboo is most commonly considered the type that will “take over your yard and your neighbors yard”. It is true that this bamboo is a vigourous grower, however it is a mistake to think that you can not control it. Running bamboo can easily be controlled with rhizome barrier, a thin plasic barrier that you install around your planting area.
Clumping bamboo is the second type of bamboo and does not have invasive properties. Clumping bamboo slowly spreads out a few inches a year until it reaches a maximum width and does not require rhizome barrier to control. Clumping bamboo can grow in clumps from three feet to ten feet and are ideal hedges for subtropical areas of the country.
Arundo donax is a reed that is considered in many states to be a weed. This plant is not a bamboo and we do not sell it. It is often mistaken as a bamboo, as are a variety of invasive and unwanted plants. Please see our “NOT A BAMBOO” page for more information on plants commonly mistaken for bamboo.
Growing Bamboo in a Container or Indoors
Growing bamboo indoors and outdoor containers is possible, but it can be tricky. In order to grow bamboo in any container you have to take into consideration the agressive root structure of most bamboos. Planting areas are estimated for all of our bamboos on the website. Take this planting area seriously when planting your project.
Outdoor Containers and Narrow Planting Areas
Growing bamboo in narrow outdoor containers or narrow planting areas can put stress on most bamboos. Many dwarf bamboos can grow in very narrow planters but most bamboo require at least 3 or more feet. Any narrower will choke the bamboo over time, resulting in yellow leaves, stunted growth and eventually killing the bamboo.
Indoor Containers and Care
Growing bamboo indoors is possible, but requries more attention and care than outdoor bamboo. Indoor bamboo are effected by the low humidity levels caused by air conditioning or heaters so the leaves of the plants must be misted on a daily basis to make up for the lack of humidity.
Planting and Care
Our website is filled with a plethora of articles on planting and care and managing bamboo pests. Be sure to check out our frequently asked questions as well. If you can’t find the answer you are looking for, don’t hesitate to contact us.
amount of organic material (planting mix or mulch). Place some of the mixed soil in the bottom of the hole and tamp it down, so that when the root ball is carefully removed from the container and placed in the hole, the top of the root ball is at ground level. Back fill around the root ball with the soil mix, tamp it down, then form a 3-4″ high basin around the plant to hold water. Steer or chicken manure can be used sparingly as part of the soil mix, as long as the other organic material is used. Mist the leaves to insure the plant does not shock.
FERTILIZING
Every year or two it is a good idea to thin out the dead culms (stalks or canes) in the center of a clump. This will allow better air circulation and faster growth of the newer culms. You can reduce the height of bamboo by cutting the taller culms above a node. To even out the appearance of the clump, you can also cut back the side branches.
For most applications, Bamboo Headquarters recommends a heavy, 40 mil, 24″ wide, high density, polyethylene barrier (HDPE), available in lengths up to 250 feet.
Insert the barrier, making sure that two inches of the barrier remain above ground to prevent the rhizomes from jumping over. We recommend that you slant the top of the barrier outward so that the rhizomes bend and grow upwards. Also, inspect the barrier once a year and remove build up of leaves and soil along the edge of the barrier so the rhizomes do not have soil to help them grow over the top.
Be sure to overlap the barrier at least three feet where the two ends meet, use two vertical strips of double sided tape within the overlapped area. This will create a seal and prevent the rhizomes from slipping in-between the seam of the rhizome barrier. Use a dry cloth like old t-shirt, or towel to remove any dust clinging to the barrier surface and to make sure there is no soil in-between the overlapped layers.
Polyethylene barrier is better than concrete, because it does not crack. It is also better than sheet metal, which tends to rust when put in the ground, creating holes for the rhizomes to escape. In most situations, the 24″ deep polyethylene barrier is effective in containing running bamboo. The few exceptions are steep hillsides, or giant timber types of bamboo in soft loamy soil. In these cases we recommend the 30″ or 36″ wide barrier.
Barrier comes with free double stick tape to join ends.
Rhizome barrier can be used to contain other spreading plants such as Equisetum horsetail. This planter would be much easier to maintain if rhizome barrier had been installed! You only need it 1′ deep, buy 2′ barrier and cut it in half!
The most common ailment to bamboo is sooty mold, which is cosmetic and does not harm the plant. Aphids secrete a nectar which the ants harvest. Sooty mold grows on the fecal residue of the aphids. The best way to prevent the sooty mold from getting started is to control the ants. Ant stakes or Spectracide granules and other approved products work well to keep the ants away from your bamboo. Insecticidal soap can be also used to kill the aphids.
Mealy Bugs – Black Sooty Mold / Fungus
Mites – Bleached Spots and Webs
Below are time series photos of different bamboo growing at our nursery.
